![]() An overcast stitch is technically the same concept as a satin stitch, but, again, much smaller. Then, starting at the end of the bar – not next to the spine – I worked the overcast stitch over the bar. With this little bar on the F, I stitched one straight stitch out from the spine of the F to the end of the little bar, then went back to the spine and stitched another straight stitch right next to the first. I’m going to satin stitch over these straight stitches, in a manner similar to what is called “trailing.” Trailing is basically an overcast stitch (like a small satin stitch) worked over a long thread or group of threads used for padding. They were obviously thicker than the drawn line, but that’s ok. The arrows in both pictures above demonstrate this idea of starting in the middle and working to each end.įor the small bar on the F, I worked two long straight stitches side by side over the drawn line. Then go back to your starting point and stitch to the other end. Begin around half-way up the bar, and then stitch to one end. When you begin the satin stitch, don’t begin right on the edge of the bar. On a shape like this, you can also stitch your satin stitch on a diagonal, but I used the horizontal on purpose. I’m working the satin stitch horizontal over the padded bar. That’s the padding – now it’s time to start the satin stitching. You can see I ended up with 3 filling lines between the two outside lines, and again, those inside filling lines are made up of a few long split stitches. I jumped over the left of the right split stitch line, and now I’m just going to fill that area between the two will very long split stitches – so, only about 3 or 4 split stitches straight down in lines. Now, I’m going to add the padding between the two lines. ![]() I stitched down the left line of the spine and up the right. To begin, split stitch along both parallel lines. So, I’m padding the satin stitch along the spine of the F. I could satin stitch it without padding it, but for this letter, I want it to lift up off the fabric a bit, so that it is definitely bolder than the rest of the letters in the word. The spine of the F in Fox is thick, and I’m going to satin stitch it first. (Appleton’s about $1.30 for 27 yards, and they offer 421 shades right now). Compared to Appleton, though, it’s really expensive – between $3-$3.50, depending on where you buy it, for 10 yards. If they had a broader color range (they only offer about 36 colors right now) and if it weren’t quite so expensive, it would be my wool of choice. It’s a beautiful color of red, first of all, and secondly, the wool itself is slightly finer and softer than Appleton, while still retaining the typical look and feel of wool thread. ![]() ![]() This is a fine wool embroidery thread, and I really liked working with it. If you’re just joining in on these tutorials, I’ve got an up-to-date index of all the hand embroidered lettering tutorials, if you want to check out some of the previous concepts covered.įor this tutorial, I’m using Simply Wool from Gentle Art, Inc. I’ll be working with wool thread in this tutorial, embroidering the word “Fox.” If you’re a beginner at hand embroidery, you may wish to check out two videos: padded satin stitch and chain stitch. After all, who says the whole word has to be embroidered with the same stitches?! Moving on to the next word in the hand embroidered lettering series, today’s tutorial concentrates on a satin stitched initial letter, with the rest of the word worked in chain stitch.
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